haley and i laughed and joked about it, but it wasnt a joking matter. there are not many good crack routes in the usa and there is no reason why he shouldnt climb. i had to help. we decided to go to the biggest problem on the wall. i called leo and told him that we were going on the crack route and that i was going to climb in the middle of his big group. he agreed to let us join him and was cool with it. we climbed up to the top of the wall.
but then we got to the crux. it was a roof and it was tiny. i hate tiny roofs. i wasnt sure i could make it and i worried that i would start off on a bad foot. i decided i would climb the smaller roof, which i could do, then put a good knee up on the next roof. but then i was on the third roof, a tiny roof that was just too wide for me. i couldnt get over it, so i backed off and climbed down. i felt bad, but i knew that felipe would have to come down. and the fact that i wasnt on the crack made me feel pretty good.
haley and i picked up felipe as he was coming down. we told him that we were going to the crack and that he was in the middle of the group. he wasnt too happy. but, he knew he had to come down, so he did. i looked at him and told him that he was lucky i didnt start out on the roof, but he should come back and try another time. he agreed. and that was that. a couple days later he asked me if i would take him climbing. i told him that he was in the middle of a crack climbing trip and that i dont really do crack climbing. but that he was in the middle of a crack climbing trip and i was more than happy to take him climbing. he was excited and i was excited. i was curious and he was curious. we set a time and he came.
as we stood at the base of the 80-foot wall, we could see the first two climbers come up the wall and inch their way up the crack. there was a steady stream of climbers on the wall of 90s. we were there the first day, and since then there have been more than 200 climbers on this line, all of whom have shared the same joys, and endured the same hardships. we had a ball. when the sun set, we packed our stoves and headed to our campsite.
i had planned my next trip with my friends to be to indian creek. but i didnt know it was indian creek anymore. the route that was once called indian creek was now called onbelay. i drove up to the sport climber website and printed out the onbelay cracks. i remember reading the names on the route, then going back to the climbing gym and telling my friends i was going to climb that. i looked up the beta and made a start. i had planned to go left but i wasnt sure what the first move was. so i just went left on my off-width crack. i learned i had a #3 cam in the corner which i had to remove to fit a #2 camalot in the crack. this wasnt ideal, but i could figure it out. i climbed from the first ledge to the second ledge. i was pumped. i had only climbed once lead before and it had been at a gym. i wasnt happy about the gear. but i was stoked to be doing it.
i was shocked that i had made it to the top. i was going to do it! i tried to put the gear back on. i just could not get the crack closed up with the gear! i was thinking about taking the rope off. i didnt want to get off the ground. i made it to the second belay. i was so happy! i knew i was going to succeed. i was chuffed. i climbed the route again and repeated the crux section. it was the perfect size for me. i climbed another 10 moves before reaching the top. i was so happy! i wasnt on a lead, so i was just so happy to be climbing! i was headed home to try the other routes at the gym.