4. next is the clutch. check to make sure the clutch is engaged and not sticking in any gear. if the gears are not engaging, tighten the clutch pedal on the tractor. some clutches stick a bit. the clutch should be smooth and appear to move smoothly, not sloppy.
6. the starter solenoid and starter motor are normally easy to check. remove them and inspect the solenoid connections and terminals for grounding. the solenoid can be attached and inspected even if its not in the motor. if the solenoid is ok, put it back in and connect the electric cable to the solenoid. make sure that the solenoid is in a good tight position. if it is loose, it needs to be tightened. the cable should be hooked to the red and black wires at the solenoid.
diesels are the best choice if you are considering a tractor that will be used in any of the harvest time cropping operations. these machines have a substantial amount of power, excellent fuel economy and powerful cooling systems. the problem with diesels is that they are extremely powerful and must be bought and maintained like any other tractor. if an operator does not have the time or equipment to properly tune and maintain the engine, then a diesel tractor is not worth the purchase.
though you should consider the price, consider one with a level seat to make your machine more maneuverable when harvesting and doing weed control. the walk-behind machine features two-position seat. all of the controls are within reach.
the john deere tractor is certainly one of the most popular models, giving you the power to perform all of your heavy duty agricultural work. whether you’re pulling a baler, cleaning up a crop or preparing fields for planting, the john deere tractor has the versatility to help you get the job done.
One way to locate an old baler, is by checking the “Hand Of The Man Who Built Me” (HOMAMWBM) websites. Both Woodwrights and the old Wooders had many sites, usually dedicated to a specific brand. Both Companies started giving their balers unique serial numbers, though on the Woodwrights the numbering was in a different order.
The model #10, model #20, and model #50 all had various wheels, so how do you know what model it was? The numbers on the baler are located above the plow assembly. These can be read even when the baler is down and the plow assembly is in its normal position. The numbers are stamped into the blank metal plate that is in the center of the baler and is slightly taller than the plow. Look for the first 2 numbers, the next two, and then the last two. This will be the model and year. Thus a #10, 20, or 50 will be a model 10, 20, or 50. Obviously the 50 will have a longer range in the make than the 10, so the model number is first.
That should get you close enough to what your looking for. Sometimes, people can tell you what they remember from a photo of their tractor. If you look up the serial number on those websites, they will be able to tell you the approximate model and the year, from that information.
You may also find out the seller who owned the machine, and it may be worth contacting them to see if they had the serial number. Given enough time, most of the tractors will have disappeared into barns and fields, and their ownership history could go back to the maker.
I wouldnt be surprised if a lot of these Balers still had their original Serial Numbers. There are a lot of old folks around like myself who took good care of these tractors. Also, a tractor like this, manufactured in the late 1940’s, is not going to have a major breakdowns. It’s just too expensive. They were only made for a few years.